Austrian mountaineer and skier who pioneered a new style of alpine climbing, emphasizing speed, minimal equipment, and partnership, and first ascended the North Face of the Eiger with Reinhold Messner. He's also a renowned ski instructor and author.
Peter Habeler is renowned for being the first European to take part in big wall climbing in Yosemite National Park and for his historic ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen in 1978, a feat previously thought to be impossible. This Austrian mountaineer has left an indelible mark on the world of mountaineering, pushing the boundaries of human endurance and redefining the limits of alpine exploration.
Born on July 22, 1942, in Mayrhofen, Austria, Habeler developed an interest in mountain climbing at the tender age of six. His passion for the sport only grew stronger with time, and he went on to become a skiing instructor at the age of 21. This marked the beginning of his illustrious career as a mountaineer, which would take him to the highest peaks in the world.
In 1975, Habeler, along with Reinhold Messner, made history by climbing Gasherbrum I in a record three days, employing an "Alpinestyle" approach that emphasized speed, minimal equipment, and a focus on the climbing itself. This groundbreaking ascent marked a shift away from the traditional "siege tactics" that had dominated eight-thousander climbs until then, and paved the way for a new era in mountaineering.
In addition to his climbing accomplishments, Habeler has also made significant contributions to the world of mountaineering through his teaching and mentoring. He founded the Peter Habeler Ski and Mountaineering School in his hometown of Mayrhofen, Austria, which is now run by his son. Even at the age of 74, Habeler continues to teach and inspire new generations of climbers, as seen in his repeat ascent of the Eiger's north face with David Lama.
Through his remarkable achievements, Peter Habeler has left an enduring legacy in the world of mountaineering, one that continues to inspire and motivate climbers around the world.
81 Years Old
First person to climb all 14 eight-thousander peaks, including Mount Everest, and a renowned explorer of remote regions. He has written extensively about his expeditions and has held public office in Italy.
Born in 1912
A renowned mountaineer and geographer who led the first ascent of the Carstensz Pyramid in New Guinea and escaped from a British internment camp in India to trek to Tibet, where he befriended the Dalai Lama.
94 Years Old
A renowned mountaineer and author who conquered several eight-thousander peaks, including the first ascent of Broad Peak, and wrote books about his expeditions. He's a legendary figure in the mountaineering community.
Born in 1924
A pioneering alpinist who conquered numerous unclimbed peaks, including Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest mountain in the world, in a daring solo ascent. His fearless and innovative approach to mountaineering inspired generations of climbers.