Spanish mountaineer who conquered the Seven Summits, including Everest, and holds multiple records for his expeditions. He's a legendary figure in the mountaineering world.
Alberto Iurrategi Iriarte is a name etched in the annals of mountaineering history, renowned for being the second Basque and Spaniard to conquer the coveted "14 eight-thousanders" – the highest peaks in the world above 8,000 meters. At the tender age of 33, he achieved this feat, earning him the distinction of being the youngest person to accomplish this remarkable feat at the time.
Iurrategi's journey to the top was not without its challenges and personal losses. He climbed 12 of the eight-thousanders alongside his brother, Felix Iurrategi, with whom he shared an unbreakable bond. Tragedy struck in January 2000, when Felix lost his life during the descent from Gasherbrum II. This devastating blow did not deter Alberto, who instead, continued to pursue their shared dream, driven by a deep sense of dedication and perseverance.
Iurrategi's climbing style is characterized by minimalism and a strong emphasis on self-sufficiency. He opted for an alpine style, using few lines or Sherpas and abstained from bottled oxygen, a testament to his unwavering commitment to the purest form of mountaineering. This approach earned him the distinction of being the 4th person to climb all 14 peaks without bottled oxygen.
In collaboration with fellow climbers, Iurrategi has produced several climbing documentaries, including Gure Himalaya (Our Himalaya) and Hire Himalaya (Your Himalaya), both in Basque. These films pay tribute to his brother's memory and serve as a testament to the power of human spirit in the face of adversity. Another notable documentary, Annapurna sueño y vacÃo (Annapurna dream and hollowness), showcases his unwavering dedication to the craft.
In 2017, Iurrategi, along with fellow Basque mountaineers Juan Vallejo and Mikel Zabalza, was recognized by the Spanish Consejo Superior de Deportes for their heroic rescue of Italian climber Valerio Annovazzi from Gasherbrum II. This act of bravery and selflessness serves as a shining example of Iurrategi's unwavering commitment to the values of mountaineering.
Alberto Iurrategi's remarkable journey serves as a testament to the power of human resilience, brotherly love, and an unwavering commitment to the pursuit of excellence. His name will forever be etched in the annals of mountaineering history, inspiring generations to come.
Born in 1919
First person to reach the summit of Mount Everest, leading a historic expedition in 1953, and a humanitarian who worked to improve the lives of Nepalese people.
Born in 1914
First Nepalese-Indian person to reach Mount Everest's summit, alongside Sir Edmund Hillary, marking a historic achievement in mountaineering.
81 Years Old
First person to climb all 14 eight-thousander peaks, including Mount Everest, and a renowned explorer of remote regions. He has written extensively about his expeditions and has held public office in Italy.
84 Years Old
Austrian mountaineer and skier who pioneered a new style of alpine climbing, emphasizing speed, minimal equipment, and partnership, and first ascended the North Face of the Eiger with Reinhold Messner. He's also a renowned ski instructor and author.
96 Years Old
A renowned Italian journalist and mountaineer, he's famous for his daring solo ascents and record-breaking climbs in the Himalayas, inspiring generations of adventurers.
Born in 1921
A pioneering mountaineer who conquered numerous peaks in the French Alps and Himalayas, earning the nickname "The Conqueror of the Useless."
Born in 1924
A pioneering alpinist who conquered numerous unclimbed peaks, including Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest mountain in the world, in a daring solo ascent. His fearless and innovative approach to mountaineering inspired generations of climbers.
