A Kazakh mountaineer who made the first winter ascents of four of the world's 14 eight-thousander peaks, earning him the nickname "The Snow Leopard." He's also known for his bold and unconventional climbing style.
Denis Urubko is a mountaineering sensation, renowned for being the 15th person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, a feat he achieved without supplemental oxygen. This remarkable achievement has earned him a place among the elite group of climbers who have conquered the highest peaks in the world.
Born on July 29, 1973, in Russia, Urubko's passion for climbing began at a young age. He started his climbing career in the former Soviet Union, where he honed his skills and developed a reputation as a talented and fearless climber.
Urubko's impressive mountaineering résumé includes climbing two 8,000-meter peaks in winter: Makalu in 2009 with Simone Moro and Gasherbrum II in 2011 with Cory Richards and Simone Moro. He has also opened new routes on Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Broad Peak, and has completed 25 ascents of 8,000-meter peaks.
Urubko is a speed climbing specialist, holding several records for his lightning-fast ascents. In 2006, he won the Elbrus Speed Climbing competition, setting a new record by climbing from Azau station to the summit in 3 hours, 55 minutes, and 58 seconds. He has also won the Khan Tengri Mountain Festival, speed climbing the mountain from Base Camp to the summit and back in 12 hours and 21 minutes.
Urubko is known for his minimalist approach to climbing, believing in the importance of simplicity and self-reliance. He is also an advocate for climbing without supplemental oxygen, which he believes is essential for preserving the dignity of the sport.
In 2012, Urubko renounced his Kazakh citizenship and acquired Russian citizenship in 2013. He later became a Polish citizen in 2015. This complex nationality has been shaped by his experiences living and climbing in different countries.
Urubko has been involved in several rescue operations, including the notable rescue of climbers Elisabeth Revol and Tomasz Mackiewicz on Nanga Parbat in 2018. This heroic act demonstrates his commitment to protecting the lives of fellow climbers.
Urubko's remarkable climbing achievements have inspired a new generation of mountaineers, encouraging them to push their limits and pursue their dreams. His commitment to environmental causes and responsible climbing practices has also raised awareness about the importance of preserving the world's highest peaks.
Denis Urubko's pioneering spirit, exceptional climbing skills, and commitment to responsible climbing practices have left an indelible mark on the climbing community. His achievements have set a new standard for mountaineers, inspiring them to strive for greater heights.
84 Years Old
Austrian mountaineer and skier who pioneered a new style of alpine climbing, emphasizing speed, minimal equipment, and partnership, and first ascended the North Face of the Eiger with Reinhold Messner. He's also a renowned ski instructor and author.
81 Years Old
First person to climb all 14 eight-thousander peaks, including Mount Everest, and a renowned explorer of remote regions. He has written extensively about his expeditions and has held public office in Italy.
75 Years Old
A Polish mountaineer who conquered the 14 eight-thousander peaks, a feat only a few have achieved, and wrote books about his adventures. He's a national hero in Poland, inspiring many to take up mountaineering.
