An American pilot and mountaineer who pioneered extreme climbing techniques and made headlines for his daring ascents, including a fatal attempt on the Eiger Nordwand. He's also known for his charismatic personality and writing about his adventures.
John Harlin, an American alpinist and US Air Force pilot, is notoriously known for his daring attempts to conquer the north face of the Eiger, a feat that ultimately led to his tragic death in 1966. He was a trailblazer in the world of mountaineering, and his fearlessness inspired a generation of climbers.
Harlin was born on June 30, 1935, and grew up with a passion for adventure. He graduated from Sequoia High School and later attended Stanford University, where he honed his climbing skills and developed a deep appreciation for the Alps.
In 1962, Harlin made history by becoming the first American to ascend the north face of the Eiger via the 1938 Heckmair Route. This achievement cemented his reputation as a leading alpine climber, and he soon became obsessed with conquering the mountain via a more direct route.
Harlin's vision was to climb the Eiger by a direttissima, or the most direct route possible. He spent years planning and preparing for the ascent, which ultimately ended in tragedy. On March 22, 1966, Harlin's rope broke 2,000 feet from the summit, and he fell to his death.
In the aftermath of Harlin's death, his Scottish climbing partner Dougal Haston and a German party completed the ascent via the same route, which was later named the Harlin Route in his honor. The story of the climb was immortalized in the book Direttissima: The Eiger Assault by Peter Gillman and Dougal Haston.
In 1965, Harlin founded the International School of Modern Mountaineering in Leysin, Switzerland, which later dropped "Modern" from its title. The school provided a platform for Harlin to share his expertise and passion for mountaineering with others.
Harlin's son, John Harlin III, was only nine years old when his father passed away. Despite the tragedy, John III went on to become a mountaineer and author in his own right. He has written five books, including The Eiger Obsession, which recounts his own experience climbing the Eiger by the original Heckmair Route.
John Harlin's legacy continues to inspire generations of climbers and adventure seekers. His bravery, passion, and innovative spirit have left an indelible mark on the world of mountaineering.
81 Years Old
First person to climb all 14 eight-thousander peaks, including Mount Everest, and a renowned explorer of remote regions. He has written extensively about his expeditions and has held public office in Italy.
83 Years Old
Austrian mountaineer and skier who pioneered a new style of alpine climbing, emphasizing speed, minimal equipment, and partnership, and first ascended the North Face of the Eiger with Reinhold Messner. He's also a renowned ski instructor and author.
Born in 1912
A renowned mountaineer and geographer who led the first ascent of the Carstensz Pyramid in New Guinea and escaped from a British internment camp in India to trek to Tibet, where he befriended the Dalai Lama.
Born in 1919
First person to reach the summit of Mount Everest, leading a historic expedition in 1953, and a humanitarian who worked to improve the lives of Nepalese people.
Born in 1914
First Nepalese-Indian person to reach Mount Everest's summit, alongside Sir Edmund Hillary, marking a historic achievement in mountaineering.
Born in 1886
An English lieutenant and mountaineer who attempted to conquer Mount Everest in 1924, famously disappearing during the attempt, sparking a decades-long mystery. He's known for his bravery and pioneering spirit in exploration.
Born in 1902
British mountaineer who attempted to be the first to climb Mount Everest, but tragically disappeared during the expedition. He's famously known for his mysterious and untimely death on the mountain.
