A Spanish mountaineer who holds the record for being the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousander peaks, including Mount Everest, and is known for his remarkable climbing achievements.
Juanito Oiarzabal, born on March 30, 1956, is a renowned Spanish Basque mountaineer who has made history by becoming the sixth person to reach all 14 eight-thousander summits, and the third to do so without supplemental oxygen. He is also the first person to conquer the top three summits twice: Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga.
Oiarzabal's mountaineering career spans over three decades, with numerous expeditions across the globe. Some of his notable achievements include:
Oiarzabal's success in the Himalayas is well-documented, with 35 expeditions over 23 years. He has climbed all the major peaks, including Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga, multiple times. In 2004, he lost all his toes to frostbite after summiting K2, but that didn't deter him from continuing his climbs.
In 2009, Oiarzabal announced his ambition to become the first person in history to reach a double 14, summiting each 8000er twice. He achieved this feat in 2010, climbing Annapurna and setting a world record. In 2011, he climbed Lhotse for a second time, marking his 25th eight-thousander ascent.
Oiarzabal's determination and perseverance have earned him recognition as one of the greatest mountaineers of all time. He is currently second all-time for 8000er ascents, behind Nepali climber Phurba Tashi Sherpa.
Oiarzabal's mountaineering philosophy is centered around pushing human limits and exploring the unknown. He believes that climbing is not just about reaching the summit but about the journey, the experience, and the human connection.
Oiarzabal has received numerous awards and honors for his achievements, including the "Medalla de Oro al Mérito Deportivo" (Gold Medal for Sports Merit) from the Spanish government.
Juanito Oiarzabal's legacy extends beyond his mountaineering achievements. He has inspired a generation of climbers and adventurers, and his expeditions have contributed significantly to our understanding of the Himalayas and the world's highest peaks.
Oiarzabal's remarkable story is a testament to human endurance, perseverance, and the pursuit of excellence. He continues to inspire and motivate people around the world, and his name will forever be etched in the annals of mountaineering history.
81 Years Old
First person to climb all 14 eight-thousander peaks, including Mount Everest, and a renowned explorer of remote regions. He has written extensively about his expeditions and has held public office in Italy.
84 Years Old
Austrian mountaineer and skier who pioneered a new style of alpine climbing, emphasizing speed, minimal equipment, and partnership, and first ascended the North Face of the Eiger with Reinhold Messner. He's also a renowned ski instructor and author.
53 Years Old
Spanish mountaineer who became the first woman to climb all 14 eight-thousander peaks, achieving this feat in 2010. She broke multiple records and inspired a new generation of female climbers.
Born in 1914
First Nepalese-Indian person to reach Mount Everest's summit, alongside Sir Edmund Hillary, marking a historic achievement in mountaineering.
